20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I was raised by a mountain guide (my dad) and have spent my whole life as a climber. I spent my childhood days roaming the base of the crags around the western United States. My dad and I started out together and for years, he was my main partner. Our family vacations were to Yosemite, Joshua Tree, places like that. When I was 14 we went to Bolivia and climbed two peaks over 20,000 feet. It was cool to experience another culture as well as the mountaineering mentality. I eventually got interested in sport and competition climbing. More recently I have focused on big wall free climbing.

Describe a memorable climbing experience:

(Quoted with permission from an article in Alpinist #15)

My eyes suddenly jolted open. My belayer, Chris McNamara, had unknowingly woken me up as he arrived at the belay. I cannot believe I fell asleep hanging in my harness, I thought to myself. The night was getting cold, or at least I thought. Goose bumps covered my body, and a slight chill scampered up my spine. Maybe my body was shutting down from overexertion. I clicked my headlamp on high, slipped my climbing shoes over my swollen, red tender feet and began stemming. Above was a steep smooth granite corner. The stars were providing just enough light that I could see the base of El Cap shimmering twenty five hundred feet below. It created a bit of an ominous feel. I switched to a lie back and continued grunting up the rounded corner. My arms were quivering with pain and fatigue and I was getting pumped shockingly fast. My hand started to cramp and in desperation I switched back to stemming. My hart was pumping fast and my breath quickened. I knew that if I fell here it would seriously affect my chances of making it successfully to the top. My feet started to slide so I pulled a little harder just as my muscles gave out and I was off.

It had definitely been a long day. I had been climbing for twenty-two hours and had already done sixty pitches. “Who’s idea was it to try and free climb two El Cap routes in a day?” I whimpered to Chris.

“Um, yours.” He replied.

My wife Beth and I came to Yosemite this year with the goal of repeating Lynn Hill’s historic ascent of the Nose. We wanted to climb it in the best possible style we could. This was not the first time we had come to the Valley with the Nose in mind, but were always discouraged by the crowds. This season we were determined. We realized the most famous rock climb in the world was not going to get any less crowded and we would just have to find a way to make it work.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
I hope to take what I have learned in Yosemite and apply it to bigger mountains. I also want to continue to climb in Yosemite, work on my bouldering and find ways to give back to the climbing world that has given me such an amazing life.

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
It’s hard but seems to be becoming an everyday occurrence in Europe.

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping or comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
I think if you focus on these sorts of things you are missing what is truly important in climbing. Leave the environment you climb in as pristine as possible. Altering rock or existing routes shows little respect for climbing or the people who came before you (I am a bit of a hypocrite here because I have placed bolts)

Do you have any vices and what are they?
Beth’s chocolate chip cookies. (Actually I think they are good for me.)

Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
I like to read about the pioneers of Yosemite climbing. The mountains have a rich history that can endlessly inspire and entertain.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
I have a list about mile long. I am always striving to push myself farther and explore more. My main goal is to always remain grounded and keep the important things in perspective.