20 Questions
Describe your climbing and skiing background?
I was a skier first, although I didn't learn to turn until last year. My grandfather set us loose at Mad River Glen in Vermont where I took it upon myself chase my older brother down any run he thought might get me off his tails. Turning came after switching to alpine touring gear from telemark. Suddenly, I found myself skiing steep, narrow couloirs and big mountains where turning and not falling were essentials. Rock climbing, although not my first passion, grew to be my primary pursuit in the mountains. After less than one year rock climbing, I found myself at the base of The Nose of El Capitan experiencing the my first big wall stomache churning. After The Nose, I climbed El Cap five more times. Earning for more adventure, I travelled to Patagonia, Alaska, the Bugaboos, and the Waddington Range. I have climbed first ascents in the Waddington Range, in Utah, and in Wyoming, and I have skied first descents in the Waddington Range and in the Canadian Rockies. A recent highlight was skiing the Grand Teton with my great friend, Lisa. This was adventure. A new route, with skis on our backs, ice tools in hand- not knowing if we would actually ski it until we were clicked in on the summit.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
Surviving the tumor blocking my left lung. A miracle worker, Doctor John D. Mitchell, saved half of my left lung by sewing the left main bronchus stem to the upper lobe. Being able to breathe better than I had for a year up until then inspired me to jump back into the mountains with a newfound joy. Two weeks after surgery I was backcountry skiing. Two months later, I climbed Rewritten, an Eldorado Canyon seven pitch 5.8. Six month later, I soloed the Grand Traverse (an enchainment of 13 peaks) in the Tetons in sixteen hours. The ordeal forced me to figure out what I really cared about and to go out and get it. No sense in wasting time.

What do you do when your not climbing or skiing?
I love music. Downloading Josh Ritter right now, and psyched on all the new songs by Luke Reynolds. I play guitar and dance and go to shows when possible. I write- letters to senators to stop drilling in ANWR, or blog at julianiles.com, or indulge in a private journal entry. I like inviting friends over to share in a homemade pot of soup. I have a kick ass family that I visit compulsively. I don't knit. Despite trying many times, it takes too much thought to do anything else while doing it, and too little to keep me engaged.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Resolve to do it. Organize your life so that it is possible. Write down what you have done and what you want to do. Its great fun to go back at the end of the season and see how many great days accomplishing your goals you have had. Good preparation can go a long way in making an adventure great.

Who or what inspires you?
An opening in the clouds. Right at dust when the light shines through at an angle giving everything a deep glow.Positive thinking. People who rebel against the impulse to wear black.

Anything that really irks you in the mountains?
Any human behavior that blatantly ignores the fact that the wilds are finite.

What's playing in your stereo/iPod/head right now?
Josh Ritter.

What book are you reading right now or read that you liked?
Glass Castle

What are your future plans or goals in climbing and skiing?
The ultimate adventure begins with trying to figure out how to fit all of the climbing and skiing gear into one chopper. Day 1: ski a melodically fluted face, air the bergschrund, cop another 3000 feet of luscious turns. Day 2: Climb the adjacent 2000 foot splitter granite crack (V 5.11+) in the sun. Day 3: kinda like day one. Day 4: kinda like day two. Repeat. Seriously, I am learning how to kite ski. And I want to climb 5.13. Then take those skills to the mountains.

Anyone you would like to give a shout out to, who's helped you out along the way?
Sean Easton. YO! You are my inspiration, my grounding, and my wings.